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Thibault Liger-Belair bourguignon bio et droit dans ses bottes
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Bio et bouguignon sont deux mots qui vont très bien ensemble, très bien ensemble...
Des vignerons bourguignons et bio et qui ne doutent pas, ça existe, j'en ai rencontré un, Thibault Liger-Belair, vigneron en Bourgogne à Nuits-Saint-Georges et en Beaujolais (Moulin à Vent).
 Quelles réflexions vous inspire l'article publié par le Monde ?
Thibault Liger-Belair : on a toujours l'impression qu'il s'agit d'une chasse aux sorcières médiatique des vignerons bio. Avec ce sous entendu : ce que vous faites c'est peut-être bien pour la planète, mais pensez à vos récoltes. C'est une erreur, un faux débat.
Vos récoltes précisément. Comment se présente le millésime 2012, avec ce printemps pluvieux et ces attaques de mildiou?
Thibault Liger-Belair : si le travail a été bien fait, si les vignes ont été bien suivies, le millésime 2012 donnera une belle leçon aux partisans du tout-chimique. Cet article m'a amené à cette réflexion qui dépasse le débat entre bios et pas bios. En culture biologique, on fait confiance à la vigne, et la vigne a des cycles, et selon ces cycles, on devra être plus protecteur ou seulement l'épauler. Le secret de la réussite du millésime 2012, un millésime difficile, résidera dans la qualité du soutien que nous aurons apportée à nos vignes.
Face à ce millésime difficile, n'avez-vous jamais douté ?
Thibault Liger-Belair : au contraire, il faut être simplement plus vigilent. La culture biologique est un travail de longue haleine. Ce n'est pas parce que c'est une année difficile qu'il faut tout abandonner, comme ce fut le cas en 2008, une année difficile où de nombreux vignerons en Bourgogne, en lCôtes-de-Nuits se sont découragés et sont revenus au chimique.
Que représente pour vous la culture bio ?
Thibault Liger-Belair : le bio m'a apporté une compréhension de la vigne, du végétal. Une façon de regarder la vigne d'une autre manière, comme un individu qui a des bons et des mauvais jours. A nous de soutenir la vigne dans ses mauvais jours. Ce genre d'année difficile nous amène à réfléchir et à nous poser des questions certes. Mais je suis convaincu que nous allons dans le bon sens.
2012 est une année charnière, mais on travaille pour demain. On n'est pas là pour seulement utiliser les sols et la terre, mais mieux les transmettre, et surtout bien les transmettre. Nous sommes des passeurs. C'est une conviction profonde. Je ne veux pas me servir du bio à des fins commerciales, je ne mets pas de logo sur mes bouteilles. |
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Thibault Liger-Belair le 07/11/12 dans
La Vigne
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Jancis Robinson 2010 vintage
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DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR
Thibault Liger-Belair, Vieilles Vignes 2010 Moulin-Ã -Vent 16.5 Drink 2013-2017
Lively crimson. Very alluring! Splits the difference between rich burgundy and Beaujolais. Not the most purist nose but... very sweet with good acid and chew on the end.
£145 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Grands Chaillots 2010 Bourgogne 16 Drink 2014-2017
Bright crimson. Very solid and burly. Bone-dry finish after quite a lot of impact. And quite marked tannins. Very much a Côte de Nuits style. Much more ambitious than most Bourgogne Rouge.
£138 per case ib Flint
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Grands Chaillots 2010 Bourgogne 16.5 Drink 2013-2018
Rich and dense and much more ambitious (and alcoholic?) than the average Bourgogne. Sumptuous. GV if you like the style.
£144 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Corvée de Villy 2010 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 16 Drink 2013-2016
Pale ruby. Good vibrant stuff. Lively and transparent - much tarter than the Bourgogne Rouge.
£162 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Charmotte 2010 Nuits-St-Georges 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Dense, reduced a tad? But lots there. Smooth and racy. But seems quite agricultural with lower acid than most. Long and flattering.
£325 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Aux Réas 2010 Vosne-Romanée 17 Drink 2016-2025
Very sweet and rich. Dense and intense. Lots of effort in here! Just a little soft but you cannot fault it for not trying.
£228 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Gruenchers Premier Cru 2010 Chambolle-Musigny 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Quite vegy nose and then crunchy, wild-flower aromas. Lots going on here but it's a sort of jazzy version of Chambolle. Lots of grunt.
£275 per case of 6 ib Flint
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les St-Georges Premier Cru 2010 Nuits-St-Georges 16.5 Drink 2016-2024
11 hl/ha. Very sweet and rich. Energetic.
£297 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Toppe au Vert Premier Cru 2010 Aloxe-Corton 17 Drink 2015-2023
Mid ruby. Quite evolved and very flattering - far from tough! Lively fruit. Very transparent and fresh on the palate in fact. Really racy and interesting.
£370 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Corton-Les Renardes 17.5 Drink 2015-2028
Crimson. Very full of life! Bumptious. Not the most ridiculous price for a grand cru. Such race underneath. Yet it manages to be smooth too. Real depth and sincerity. Lots of pleasure efficiently delivered.
£294 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Clos de Vougeot 17.5 Drink 2016-2030
Dense and rich and energy and a bit liqueur-like. Almost exaggerated!
£390 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Charmes-Chambertin 18.5 Drink 2015-2030
Light crimson. Very heady, layered nose. Sweet start and lots of interest here. The sort of wine that will probably go through many different stages in its life. Fresh and vital. One of the most interesting 2010s I have tasted in London. And I don't think you will be forced to wait all that long for it either!
£411 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Richebourg 19 Drink 2016-2032
How amazing to show a wine of this price at a big tasting! Rich and layered and really rather subtle. Much more subtle than the Charmes with a hint of lacquered Peking/Beijing duck about it. Very jolly. So nice to see a producer do something different yet still in the spirit of the vineyard. Vibrant finish. Respect.
£1,101 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman |
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Thibault Liger-Belair le 23/02/12 dans
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Jancis Robinson 2010 vintage
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DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR
Thibault Liger-Belair, Vieilles Vignes 2010 Moulin-Ã -Vent 16.5 Drink 2013-2017
Lively crimson. Very alluring! Splits the difference between rich burgundy and Beaujolais. Not the most purist nose but... very sweet with good acid and chew on the end.
£145 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Grands Chaillots 2010 Bourgogne 16 Drink 2014-2017
Bright crimson. Very solid and burly. Bone-dry finish after quite a lot of impact. And quite marked tannins. Very much a Côte de Nuits style. Much more ambitious than most Bourgogne Rouge.
£138 per case ib Flint
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Grands Chaillots 2010 Bourgogne 16.5 Drink 2013-2018
Rich and dense and much more ambitious (and alcoholic?) than the average Bourgogne. Sumptuous. GV if you like the style.
£144 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Corvée de Villy 2010 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 16 Drink 2013-2016
Pale ruby. Good vibrant stuff. Lively and transparent - much tarter than the Bourgogne Rouge.
£162 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Charmotte 2010 Nuits-St-Georges 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Dense, reduced a tad? But lots there. Smooth and racy. But seems quite agricultural with lower acid than most. Long and flattering.
£325 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Aux Réas 2010 Vosne-Romanée 17 Drink 2016-2025
Very sweet and rich. Dense and intense. Lots of effort in here! Just a little soft but you cannot fault it for not trying.
£228 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Gruenchers Premier Cru 2010 Chambolle-Musigny 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Quite vegy nose and then crunchy, wild-flower aromas. Lots going on here but it's a sort of jazzy version of Chambolle. Lots of grunt.
£275 per case of 6 ib Flint
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les St-Georges Premier Cru 2010 Nuits-St-Georges 16.5 Drink 2016-2024
11 hl/ha. Very sweet and rich. Energetic.
£297 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, La Toppe au Vert Premier Cru 2010 Aloxe-Corton 17 Drink 2015-2023
Mid ruby. Quite evolved and very flattering - far from tough! Lively fruit. Very transparent and fresh on the palate in fact. Really racy and interesting.
£370 per case ib OW Loeb
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Corton-Les Renardes 17.5 Drink 2015-2028
Crimson. Very full of life! Bumptious. Not the most ridiculous price for a grand cru. Such race underneath. Yet it manages to be smooth too. Real depth and sincerity. Lots of pleasure efficiently delivered.
£294 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Clos de Vougeot 17.5 Drink 2016-2030
Dense and rich and energy and a bit liqueur-like. Almost exaggerated!
£390 per case of 6 ib BBR
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Charmes-Chambertin 18.5 Drink 2015-2030
Light crimson. Very heady, layered nose. Sweet start and lots of interest here. The sort of wine that will probably go through many different stages in its life. Fresh and vital. One of the most interesting 2010s I have tasted in London. And I don't think you will be forced to wait all that long for it either!
£411 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru 2010 Richebourg 19 Drink 2016-2032
How amazing to show a wine of this price at a big tasting! Rich and layered and really rather subtle. Much more subtle than the Charmes with a hint of lacquered Peking/Beijing duck about it. Very jolly. So nice to see a producer do something different yet still in the spirit of the vineyard. Vibrant finish. Respect.
£1,101 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman |
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Thibault Liger-Belair le 23/02/12 dans
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Jancis Robinson Purple page 13/12/2011
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Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les St-Georges 2006
16 Dec 2011 by Jancis Robinson
From £49.50, $69.90, €60, 9,428 yen, HK$1,043 Find this self-indulgent wine
'Tis the season to treat yourself to something special, and reliable, well- distributed red burgundies that are ready to drink do not grow on trees.
Thibault Liger-Belair (pictured) - the rather more, ahem, substantial Liger-Belair, as opposed to Vosne Romanée's Prince of Belair - is lucky enough to own almost a third of the 7.5 ha premier cru Les St-Georges, the jewel of Nuit-St-Georges (which was named after it, after all). Indeed, local gossip is that it will be officially elevated to a grand cru soon. Jump in before the wines are priced at grand cru level!
Like all Thibault Liger-Belair's vineyards, this has been Ecocert-certifed organic for some time and is always one of his big successes.
He does not make light wines. But nor are they ridiculously overweighted by oak. They are agreeably plump. I have tasted Dom Thibault Liger-Belair, Les St-Georges Premier Cru 2006 Nuits-St-Georges at least five times now, most recently in a blind line-up of premier cru and grand cru red burgundies, and scored it 17.5, writing, 'Rusty ruby colour. Like a heady fruit cocktail on the nose. Sweet start and very charming. Just ready to drink and drenched in easy-to-appreciate red fruit flavours.' I think it will have many delicious years ahead of it but it would be absolutely stunning with any special meal, especially one featuring roast turkey, over the coming weeks.
It is worth noting, however, that this wine has consistently shown well, whether during the en primeur tastings in early 2008 or in the much less forgiving context of the blind tastings of 2006 burgundies that I undertook in Beaune a couple of years ago.
Thanks to Thibault's unusually extensive holding, you can find this wine with several merchants in the UK and the US as well as widely in Europe and Asia. Best price of all seems to be chez Lea & Sandeman, who underprice Berry Bros by quite a margin. Here are details of his distributors.
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Thibault Liger-Belair le 19/12/11 dans
Dégustations
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